how do I fix rust on my car?

[Altron]

hello friends,

I was attempting to clean the Max today, and I noticed this. I believe it's called the 'radiator support'

From the sounds of it, it's a pretty major issue on a lot of Maximas. Usually people don't notice it until it's completely rusted through, but mine doesn't seem to be that terrible.

Now, I've searched online about it, and the only way to replace that piece involves taking off the entire front bumper, headlights, grille, both fenders, the radiator and a bunch of other stuff.

Or, you can remove just the bumper and weld a piece of metal over it, but I don't know how to weld.

Is there a way I can fix this for like 20 bucks? I was thinking of using vinegar or something to dissolve the rust, then put a few heavy coats of heat/weather resistant paint (like rubberized truck bed liner, or engine paint, or something like that) over all the bare metal, then maybe bolt a piece of steel bar stock across it.

What would the best option be? How would it affect resale value if I just tried to patch it up instead of properly fixing it?

Inky I need your help!!!

 

[MrBishop]

On the cheap... you need to remove as much of the rust as possible (Steel wool), then nuetralize what you can't remove (anti-rust seal which also acts as waterproofing) and then repaint.

SLightly more expensive would be to grind away the affected section and fill it/mold it with body putty, prime and paint.

There is also such a thing as 'liquid steel' - but I can't find links to it right now.

 

[Inkara1]

Yeah, Mickey-Mousing it would probably affect resale value a little bit. The only way to really do it right is to take all that stuff off... but then it will be more structurally sound than bolting on some sort of other support beam to supplement the rusted one. Then you should be set for another decade until the new one rusts out.

You definitely don't want to use bondo on that since it's a structural piece and is not a "visible" piece (unless you look through the air holes in the front of the car). You also don't want to grind away too much at it... just surface grinding, but making sure to not cut through it. Does the rust extend up further under the paint?

Do you know someone that does have a welder?

 

[Altron]

The issue is that it's a huge piece, so there's about a million things that need to be removed, then it's welded to the unibody so you have to drill out like 30 spot welds, then buy a new one and weld it back in.

Most people with the same generation Maxima as mine paid $500-800 to do it... I doubt I would be able to recoup any of that while selling it.

This "liquid steel" sounds interesting... is it like Bondo except stronger?

I was thinking of going in with steel wool and vinegar, getting the rust out, filling in the gap with something, and painting with anti-corrosive paint over it.

 

[Gonz]

how do I fix rust on my car?

 

[paul_valaru]

sand it, paint it with rust resistant stuff, if you can reinforce it, grease the crap out of it, then start saving up so you can get it fixed.

 

[Altron]

It has to make it through next winter, then we're probably selling it. Is removing the rust, patching it with filler, and then spraying it with an anti-corrosive coating the best way to fix it? Nope, but it's the cheapest way to.

I spend so much money fixing the damn thing that I'm looking for cheap repairs... my EGR hose broke, so I bought a rubber hose for a dollar at the hardware store and patched it up.

I bought an OBD-2 scanner so I can reset check engine lights like every month or so.

 

[Professur]

My honest opinion? Scrape it down with a paint scraper to get all the loose paint and rust off. Then hit it (if there's no penetration) with POR15 (available at any parts shop worth ever dealing with again). I'd tape off the entire support and paint the entire thing solid black. Looks better behind a grill anyhow. POR15 is a rust neutralizer, sealer, and primer all in one can. Costs some, but worth every penny.

If you were gonna keep the car, I'd be giving you suggestions on replacing it outright, or at least repairing it. But if you're not keeping, there's no point in making repairs that'll outlast your ownership.

 

[Altron]

Should I try to find that liquid metal and fill the hole, then apply the POR15?

 

[Professur]

I wouldn't, but I'm a purist. Liquid metal, JB weld, bondo ... they're all cheats. And, frankly, when it's found when you try to sell it, you'll hose your price because if you've tried to hide that ... what else are you hiding? Get it?

If it's through, you've two options. One, find someone with a welder who'll weld a patch piece in. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks if you're willing to pull the bumper and grill yourself. Option two is similar, but you grind it clean around the perimeter of the hole and patch it with fibreglass, a very user friendly material that's as strong as steel if used correctly. One other option that I hesitate to suggest is the new panel adhesive. That would let you simply glue a new bit of plate over the hole ... but that glue's very expensive.

Any way you attack it, if you have to patch a hole, you need to grind back to clean strong metal, and frankly, that's not worth the effort. You'll net make back what it'll cost you. But for Gawd's sake, ignore the people telling you to use putty. They're the same folk that are keeping Ron Popeil on TV.

 

[JTP]

Professur has a good idea with the fiberglass. Great for car bodies and canoes, but I've never used it on any structural parts. Makes sense, though because it does dry to a steel-like hardness. Wear long sleeves and heavy rubber gloves, though because it's a sticky mess when the resin's still wet.

 

[Professur]

Professur has a good idea with the fiberglass. Great for car bodies and canoes, but I've never used it on any structural parts. Makes sense, though because it does dry to a steel-like hardness. Wear long sleeves and heavy rubber gloves, though because it's a sticky mess when the resin's still wet.

I only suggest it for this case because if there's a hole, the structural integrity is already compromised.

 

[OldHippie]

That thing looks like it could turn into a can of worms. First off chip away the rust and see EXACTLY how much damage has been done to the piece. Another thing to remember is your just trying to make it another year. Then do as the professur says and have someone weld in a patch piece. You'll have the structural integrity back. If you want to make it pretty, then grind it down, smooth it out with some bondo and paint it chassis black to match.

 

[Inkara1]

I really don't like the idea of using bondo on that piece for two reasons: 1. It would be a waste trying to smooth it out to look pretty because it's hidden behind the bumper; and 2. it's an important structural part that does a lot more than just keep the radiator from dragging on the ground. It's also important to keep the car's body from flexing, etc. because it ties the two sides of the front subframe together. It doesn't need to look pretty, it needs to be strong, and bondo is to make it look pretty.

 

[2minkey]

i had some serious rust where the door hinges are on my old nissan. i had the cancer cut out and patches welded in. seemed to be pretty trouble free after that...

if you don't wanna pay the $ to do it right, drive it for a year and sell it. bondo is for communists.

 

[tonksy]

One of my "neighbors" is president of the company that makes Bondo...he's a republican.

 

[Altron]

I'm reading on the Maxima site (altho, tbh, most of those people are seriously lacking in knowledge of anything), they're like "it's not structural"

I'll get some pics in an hour or two once I remove part of the bumper... but it looks like there's an engine mount on it too... so i'm thinking it's structural

But, then, there's pictures of where it is rusted nearly completely through on someones car, and still holding up the car.

I'll be able to tell once I get up on ramps.

 

[chcr]

Looks structural to me. I wouldn't use anything plastic (bondo, JB Weld, liquid steel) on something like that. Fiberglass would probably be okay but it might not hold up, depending on how bad it is. The most important thing is stopping the rust. The only ways to fix it, as you are already aware, are replacement or welding. Unfortunately, you live where cars rust. Not much you can do about that. I had a '64 Tempest once that had six repairs in the frame.

Part of me wants to ask how a boy reaches adulthood without learning such essentials as how to weld, but I see that I'm in the vanishingly small minority on that one. 'm not even sure my son knows how although I offered to teach him multiple times.

 

[Professur]

Al, holding up and safe are far distant cousins. My pickup being a solid example of "what the fuck's holding it up".

Chcr, that's why my kids are learning the 'outdated' skills of shooting, hunting, fixing ... etc. you know, that 'blue collar loser' stuff.

 

[Altron]

My dad doesn't know how to weld, so there isn't anyone I could learn it from.

I do know how to use tools though, and do wiring.

Well, first, I removed everything that was kinda flaking off. I used steel wool, and I couldn't get a lot of it off. I took off all the loosely attached flakes, but left the thicker ones that wouldn't come off.

I couldn't get POR15 so I bought a spray-on rubberized anti-corrosion undercoating.

before:

after:

and the diagram from the service manual