Hot water heater

A.B.Normal

A.B.Normal

New Member
Heres the thing the HWT is leaking (its the pressure release valve). I'm used to the kind of PRV with a lever you can open and clear it/check it,this is a round screw in (see attachment).If I were to undo the cap will the water simply flow out the hose attached for the overlfow or will it shoot upwards out of the unscrewed cap? I've searched the WWW but I can't seem to find any info on our PRV.

Any help appreciated
 
Professur

Professur

Well-Known Member
Never seen one like it myself either. But, given that a new one is less that $20, I'd go ahead and change it out for a new one.
 
tonksy

tonksy

New Member
Okay...I was watching ATOH and they had this dude with basically the same problem. Here's the skinny in non techinical terms because I don't speak Normy:
Back in the day the inlet valve from the street acted as a pressure release valve because it was a 2 way valve. Nowadays they have started putting these pressure adjusting dohickers that control or lessen the amount of water pressure that comes into the house. Problem being is that they are one way valve (or in nautical terms check valves) so when the pressure builds up in the tank there is nowhere for the water to go but throught that pipe of yours that is leaking. It is actually a safety device because if it didn't leak from the tremendous pressure would built up and go Kabluey! They make these little tank deals that look quite similar to a kerosene tank for a BBQ. it's a pressure relief tank or summat. You add this into the line and it gives a place for the water to go, lowing the pressure and stopping the leak. It requires soldering so if you can't do that you may need help.
 
catocom

catocom

Well-Known Member
I've replaced several of them.
First you'll have to do with out hot water for at least 1-2 hours.
You need to turn off/cut the breaker to the heater, (Unless it's gas, then cut off the gas)
Wait for an hour or so,
cut off the water to it, or the whole house....open a faucet or flush the toilet.
to get the pressure off the water line.
Wait for an hour or so, and check the valve to see if there's pressure on it.
If no, change it...there may be just a cup or 2 of water while changing.
If there is still pressure on it you'll need to wait longer.
 
Inkara1

Inkara1

Well-Known Member
tonksy said:
Okay...I was watching ATOH and they had this dude with basically the same problem. Here's the skinny in non techinical terms because I don't speak Normy:
Back in the day the inlet valve from the street acted as a pressure release valve because it was a 2 way valve. Nowadays they have started putting these pressure adjusting dohickers that control or lessen the amount of water pressure that comes into the house. Problem being is that they are one way valve (or in nautical terms check valves) so when the pressure builds up in the tank there is nowhere for the water to go but throught that pipe of yours that is leaking. It is actually a safety device because if it didn't leak from the tremendous pressure would built up and go Kabluey! They make these little tank deals that look quite similar to a kerosene tank for a BBQ. it's a pressure relief tank or summat. You add this into the line and it gives a place for the water to go, lowing the pressure and stopping the leak. It requires soldering so if you can't do that you may need help.
Click to expand...

You're overcomplicating it. His problem isn't with the incoming water pressure. It's with pressure in the water heater. That's why I told him to dial back the heat a little bit; heating the water is what builds up pressure.
 
Professur

Professur

Well-Known Member
Well, let's begin with, that's a threaded part. The new one jsut needs teflon tape, and screws right it.

The pressure relief is right, and a few dribbles from time to time is normal. But, inside that valve is a spring, and a seat. The spring accepts a certain amount of expansion as normal. Once it passes a certain point, the seat opens and a little bit of water bleeds off, to drop the pressure. Unless something drastic has changed, all you're experiencing is that the spring inside has gotten weaker over the years, and needs replaced.
 
Inkara1

Inkara1

Well-Known Member
I was figuring that if he's got the heat up a little high, the pressure is holding steady at just below the limit the spring allows, which after a while would put enough pressure on the spring to weaken it... so as the logic goes, if he turned back the heat a touch, it would put a little less pressure on the spring and extend its life... this, of course, after he replaces it. I'm trying to extend the life of the new one, not the old one.
 
tonksy

tonksy

New Member
Inkara1 said:
You're overcomplicating it. His problem isn't with the incoming water pressure. It's with pressure in the water heater. That's why I told him to dial back the heat a little bit; heating the water is what builds up pressure.
Click to expand...
I was trying to explain why he has that pressure problem in the heater, The water has nowhere to go because the new pressure reducing valves are one way valves that do not allow for the relief of pressure.
 
A.B.Normal

A.B.Normal

New Member
Well since we're renting,I'll leave it up to the landlord then ,since its not a simple fix especially if we're dealing with waterline pressure issues and the main water shutoff means crawling under the house .{rats and such}

Thanks anyway
 
unclehobart

unclehobart

New Member
Putting the pressure release on top of the heater seems like a funny place to put it. It would only end up dumping water back over the entire mechanism. I say slap a hose on it and put a bucket under it. Show your landlord my article for the solid fix. It shouldn't be more than a $100cdn fix so long as he has a plumber buddy with all the right tools.
 
Professur

Professur

Well-Known Member
unclehobart said:
Putting the pressure release on top of the heater seems like a funny place to put it. It would only end up dumping water back over the entire mechanism. I say slap a hose on it and put a bucket under it. Show your landlord my article for the solid fix. It shouldn't be more than a $100cdn fix so long as he has a plumper buddy with all the right tools.
Click to expand...

That's exactly where I put them, and I've done enough installs to know. It has to be within 6 inches of the top of the tank.
 
unclehobart

unclehobart

New Member
We have the same reqs. that has the bleeder valve coming out of the top 6 inches as well. But, most tanks (read 90+%) in the states have the pipe coming out of the side with the valve pointing down connected to a pipe that terminates a few inches to a foot above the ground so you can either lead it into a sump system or just slip a bucket under it.
 
Professur

Professur

Well-Known Member
Yup. Here, we usually install the tank sitting in either a copper or galvanized steel pan, and let that tube drip into it. Jsut like with your fridge, a large surface area means you don't have to empty it unless you've got a problem.

I usually put a vacumn breaker just upstream of the Tee splitting the cold inlet to the tank and the cold to the house. That way, there's no chance of a low pressure in the lines siphoning back and leaving the water tank low.
 
Inkara1

Inkara1

Well-Known Member
Umm... you guys DID notice that there's a black rubber hose attached to the pressure release valve, right?
 
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